That's what I found on my truck, the distributor vacuum advance diaphragm was not holding vacuum. You might have to buy a whole new distributor because I'm having a hell of a time finding a replacement vacuum advance
That's what I found on my truck, the distributor vacuum advance diaphragm was not holding vacuum. You might have to buy a whole new distributor because I'm having a hell of a time finding a replacement vacuum advance
Thanks for the help but the vacuum advance on my truck it a little bit different the arm is curved on it but im going to try and rebuild it tomorrow and see what it does I took it apart already and it was so brittleOriginally Posted by xboxrox
If you rebuild it could you let me know how you did it? I appear to be in the same boat as you, since we have the same issue with our distributors
CARBURATION TECHNOLOGY in Tacoma, WA Alan there will rebuild a vacuum actuator or give you advice via telephone ~ I was unable to login to his website perhaps because I am using a military connection as guest now ?
Daily Overhauls Do Get Expensive
i was able to find the website, i'll give him a call
So after rebuilding the vacuum advance twice it still didn't want to hold vacuum so im just going to buy a remafactured distributor from my local parts store it's 160 and its a lifetime warranty in case it goes bad
Although hey didn't actually rebuild my vacuum advance, they were able to find an exact replacement for my 1986 2.0 g63b. my-classic-car-trader.com/distributor-vacuum-advance-rebuilding/. $99.00 plus shipping.
Alan at Carburetion Technology is the man that I would choose to rebuild the 2.0L vacuum advancer (during the covid shutdown he shared info over the phone to help me rebuild my Mikuni carb) his website link here: http://www.carbtech.us/service/
Good info guys thanks for posting I can't find a 2.0L vacuum advancer anywhere online 2.6L is available though ~ O'Reilly's has a $83.00 core charge for the old distributor IMHO it's almost worth just keeping it unless money is an issue ~ FWIW I cleaning my distributor cap contacts & rotor which made the engine run much better but it had 2 or 3 quick engine misfires at 65mph on the H3 freeway so luckily Napa Kailua had one cap & rotor on hand and the truck runs great now (lesson learned)
Hope you guys can get the parts you need & then post the source.
It might be worth a tel call to Standard Products to see if they can provide or source the 2.0L vacuum advancer.
Good Luck
Last edited by xboxrox; 04-14-2024 at 01:41 PM.
Daily Overhauls Do Get Expensive
I installed the new distributor and now it advances but when I had the truck idling I noticed the idle kind of fluctuates but when I tap the gas it runs smooth for a little bit and then it goes back to idling rough
How clean is the PCV valve ~ I think it only allows (crankcase gases) flow to the intake manifold & like a check valve no flow in the opposite direction ~ if you can locate an engine Trouble Shooting chart it will list the most likely cause of rough idle ~ don't be surprised if you end up having to learn A LOT and FIX a lot under that hood...
P.S. your truck is a 1986 Gen1 ?? Question, is the dome light inside the cab working & is the lens cover in good shape ?? If not then check out my thread in the Gen1 truck section ;^)
Daily Overhauls Do Get Expensive
The pcv valve doesn't have no flow in the in the opposite direction but it does have flow going the other way but yeah I know this truck need some work but now I have time to actually work on it I just need help on what should be replaced and I know it going to take some time to fix everything
I installed the new carb I bought for my truck and to no surprise it runs the same. I am thinking the head is the problem now because I got it from a truck that was pretty much junk but thinking every thing would be ok if I just gave it a good clean but I didn't even check to see if the valve were closing properly and the engine that I got the head from had spun a main bearing and there was metal shaving in the oil pan so I think sending the head off to get rebuilt might be something I should do because when my truck is running the lifters are ticking like crazy there louder than the whole engine
Noisy lifters don’t necessarily mean the head needs work. More likely the lifters are gummed up or collapsed and just need cleaning. Try an engine flush or geezer101’s diesel flush method first. Or remove and clean them. You can also just replace them with new ones. Aftermarket ones are inexpensive. New or used, be sure to prime them with engine or diesel oil upon installation. After dealing with the lifters, then do a compression check. If it’s still 140+ as stated at the start of this thread, the head is probably fine.
Could the hydraulic lash adjusters need adjustment/cleaning I was looking at other threads and that might cause lifted noise too
Yes. They may need cleaning, but they have to be removed to inspect, test and clean. Since they're hydraulic, that can't be adjusted. Only the jet valves, which are mechanical, are adjustable. Once removed you should be able to compress the lifter slightly by hand. If there's no movement, clean or replace it. Also, look at the surface that contacts the valve stem. If it's pitted or worn unevenly, replace the lifters. You should be able to find a set of aftermarket lifters for $25 or less.
I think im getting the hydraulic lash adjusters and the jet valves confused there is a little bracket coming of the rocker and it has a nut and a spring on it is that a jet valve
Yes, that's the jet valve with the small spring. Loosen the nut and turn the screw to manually adjust its clearance using a feeler gauge. The hydraulic lifter is recessed within the rocker arm end and it contacts the main intake valve. The lifter-main valve clearance cannot be manually adjusted. The hydraulic lifter automatically adjusts the clearance when functioning properly.
Here's what the lifter looks like:
https://www.amazon.com/Evergreen-LF5.../dp/B007P72X60
They're about 10-12mm in diameter and roughly 22mm long.
So after looking at the valve train the half of the hydraulic lash adjusters are stuck and the jet valves were off 3 were tight and 1 was loose but I want to know if it would be better to by new lash adjusters or try and clean the old ones
The answer depends on your budget, how much time you have and the condition of the old lifters. If the lifters have no obvious wear, cleaning is fine but takes time and effort. Buying new eliminates messing with the old ones, but is an expense. Whether you go with new or cleaned lifters, you'll need to remove the rocker arm assemblies. After loosening the cam caps, stretch cut off latex glove finger tips over the rocker ends to keep the lifters from falling out of the rockers and into the engine.
One thing, the lifters that feel stuck may be the good ones. Those you can easily compress aren’t filling with or retaining oil. So they will be the noisy ones.
Last edited by FMS88; 06-01-2024 at 08:35 AM.
Note those should be nitrile latex gloves, the black/blue kind suitable for auto maintenance, chemicals, etc. Plain latex gloves (e.g. for medical use) will fall apart from exposure to oil.
1987 Dodge Ram 50 4G54 RWD longbed ("Elmo")
1979 Lancia Beta Zagato spider ("Lola")
1982 Lancia Beta Zagato spider ("Luigi")
The new HLA came in im going to install them this weekend I know I have to soak them in oil but is there anything else I should do before/after installing them
Prime them to remove any air inside the lifters. Otherwise they’ll be very noisy until engine oil pressure forces out the air. When primed you shouldn’t be able to compress the lifter by hand.
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