I'm disassembling the KM-145 transmission and I am having a difficult time getting this last few pieces out. Any help would be appreciated.
I'm disassembling the KM-145 transmission and I am having a difficult time getting this last few pieces out. Any help would be appreciated.
Look at this StarQuest thread found by xboxrox. It mentions and illustrates how to remove the countershaft.Originally Posted by BJH324JH
https://www.starquestclub.com/forum/...-transmission/
I saw that and he doesn't seem to have photos of the very thing I need help with.
If the issue is removing the synchronizer ring, from your picture it looks like the outer race of the rear countershaft bearing is still in place. The StarQuester removed both front and rear. That must have given him enough room to displace the countershaft and wiggle out the ring. If that doesn't do it, remove the main shaft center bearing.
Here's a video of someone disassembling a Ford FM145 which has Mitsubishi internals and the steps look much the same. Skip the first 20 min to jump to the relevant portion. He uses hammers to remove some bearings. Not sure that's wisest with an aluminum case.
https://www.therangerstation.com/for...-video.196355/
Thank you so much. I figured it out slowly but surely.
Nice work!I’m curious, how are you removing the center main shaft bearing?
Sorry for the late reply, my plate is full with work at the moment. I'll post some pictures of how I got it out soon.Nice work!
I'm not pulling the bearings. I mainly did this for the education. I'm not in the best financial situation to rebuild it right now. The disassembly of the transmission was an exercise done out of boredom and to gain the confidence to know that I can rebuild it if it ever goes bad. I would imagine the pressed in bearing would come off with a big puller.Nice work!
Btw, is this the "main bearing"?
I understand and the experience is good for future reference. I’ve always seen the center bearing removed using a cage puller like the posi-lock tj1. Except for the large screw driver and brass hammer used in the FM145 video, I don’t know of any other option.
Yes. It's the only double ball bearing on the main shaft.Btw, is this the "main bearing"?
Last edited by FMS88; 05-13-2024 at 09:30 PM.
Where would one get a replacement for this bearing? Seems like an oddball bearing.
The parts book I have lists MD716917 as the P/N for the center bearing of 87-90 KM145 transmissions. Looks like it's available through Amayama and a few other sources. If the trans is '86 or older, the P/N is MD703729.
Wow thank you. Are you able to share your parts book with us?
I’ll see what I can put together.
Which transmission KM132 or KM145 is in my truck..? Anyone..?
Daily Overhauls Do Get Expensive
Some trucks have a plate on the top of the radiator support that states the trans type, rear ratio and paint code. If yours doesn't have it, my documentation shows the 4wd trucks with the 2.6l engine have the KM145 trans. (P/N MD715807 for 84-86.) The KM132 was installed in 2wd trucks with different versions for the 2.0l and 2.6l engines.
Look at this site:
https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/part...filter=(T=DDR)
It lists MD71587 as KM145-1 for the '86 Ram 50. (not sure what the "-1" means.)
Thank you FMS88
Only a paint code sticker on my radiator area...
https://www.a1transmissionandparts.com/
Spoke with a guy named WILL (other shops said Will was the Mitsubishi expert) at this transmission shop in Denver & sent him an email asking for advice & parts support...
My truck still runs & drives but the IMHO sounds like the tranny input shaft bearing is nearing the end of it's lifespan...
Last edited by xboxrox; 05-18-2024 at 02:00 AM.
Daily Overhauls Do Get Expensive
As I was replacing seals throughout the transmission and transaxle, I hit a roadblock with this weird seal. It seems to have these raised "locking bumps" on it. I don't know what they are. I believe I found the after market replacement for it. Part number for aftermarket replacement is Timken 224560. Does anyone know if the aftermarket replacement will work properly? Btw, there is two stacked on top of each other. I took one out. The picture shows only one seal, but it originally had two seals stacked on top of each other facing each other. The Timken seal appears to be identical in outer diameter and inner diameter, it just doesn't have those raised spots that the original has.
PXL_20240521_072521738.jpg
PXL_20240521_073627695.jpg
It is a double seal for the input shaft of the transfer case. The original P/N is MD704164 but that's been superseded by P/N MR145502. Here's a web page for the latter.
https://pt.aliexpress.com/item/10050...martRedirect=y
The seals are installed back-to-back, or bump side-to-bump side. Behind the inner seal is a thin, shim-like baffle plate.
Also I made a PDF of the parts list. Just need to see if it will upload.
Thank you so much! It does indeed have a thin metal spacer underneath the seal. I wonder why it has those raised bumps on it though?
Both service manuals I have emphasize the application of gear oil or grease between the two seals. I suspect the bumps are there to create spaces between the backsides of the seals that retain lubricant and keep the seals happy.
Aww, I see. That makes sense. Thank you for the info! Btw, is there a factory service manual other than the typical Haynes and Chilton that can be downloaded?
Don't know of any that can be downloaded, but there are softbound copies available on ebay. The Chrysler/Mits factory manuals are year-specific and cover things barely mentioned in the Haynes (e.g. transmission repairs). But they assume a higher level of mechanical competence, have many spelling and grammatical errors, and on rare occasions an illustration is wrong or missing.
Ahh, I see. I will try to source one. Thanks for helping me.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks