Webber Carburator Fuel Pump

[Tonka]

Hello,

Just ordered a 32/36 Carb after reading alot on these forums on how highly regarded they are, especially compared to the overengineered Mikinu. This will be my first time really modding a vehicle, I've only ever just replaced parts with stock, so venturing into this territory is a bit new for myself.

I had an inquiry. I am deleting the mechanical fuel pump and installing an electronic one. I'd like to replace the fuel filter considering the addition of the Webber and new pump. Just I am conflicted if the filter should go before or after the pump. If after, I could use the stock filter and just replace it, if before, I've seen a video use this filter, which I'd just rig before the pump. I've seen some use a filter before and after, but logically that doesn't make sense to me (if its filtered, its filtered, right?).

I also have some questions on EGR/emmissions, and vapor lock and how that works. But currently I'd just like to start with the basics.

Thank you

[85Ram50]

I used an Airtex pump and installed it under the skirt behind the driver side of the cab. I kept the OE fuel filter and have recently rewired it with a relay kit from the interweb. It works better than the oil pressure switch I originally went with. Here are pics of how I installed the pump. I used a piece of sheet metal bent it to fit and bolted it in when I got the mounts on it.

[SubGothius]

Looks like that pump you chose already comes with a screw-in mini filter on the intake side, so you could just stick with that.

For replacement filters, looks like that unit would be a Wix 33046 or Mr. Gasket 1242G (or other equivalents).

[Tonka]

Looks like that pump you chose already comes with a screw-in mini filter on the intake side, so you could just stick with that.

For replacement filters, looks like that unit would be a Wix 33046 or Mr. Gasket 1242G (or other equivalents).

Oh, haha, I feel pretty silly now, canceled the order. That makes me feel a bit better. Is the OEM filter neccessary then (As in, do I need two filters)? I'll be replacing it if I keep it.

[SubGothius]

You won't need to keep the OEM filter, since that was a pre-pump filter for the mechanical fuel pump attached to the engine, and your new electric pump already has a pre-pump filter of its own.

[camoit]

I would keep the oem filter. Bigger and better than the little ones that come on a pump. Doesn’t hurt to have the big one before the pump.

[Tonka]

Hello, thanks everyone for the help.

Does anyone know what the second vaccum port next to the vacuum advance (on the vacuum advance) is? I want to block it off, but I'm not sure what it is. Other than just the vacuum advance, I've blocked everything else off.

[Tonka]

It seems like it's running great, I ended up just blocking that line off. Does anyone know what that 4th line on the mechanical fuel pumps are? Mine is puffing lightly (as the pump goes) and creates a vaccum. It's connected to a short line and just dangling freely.

https://i5.walmartimages.com/seo/Car...5cc48b8a9.jpeg

That little line on the very left. Thanks

Also, what is that mushroom (vacuum diaphram) off of the intake manifold? The one that connects to the ECM via a hose and ground. What is it's function?

Then lastly, when spraying carb cleaner at the throttle linkage/shaft, I sense an idle change as if there is a leak. Truck idles great. Online I see some saying this is normal for even a new 32/36 Weber, can anyone confirm, I'd rather resolve it.

[nskull2010]

I believe that’s the “weep” port, it allows excess pressure to escape

[Tonka]

Hello,

Starting to have some issues now. I've been trying to make the slightest changes to the carb to make it run just right. It loves to diesel, sometimes for over 5 seconds! The pressure in the fuel tank is insanely high, much higher than with the mikinu (large psshhhh, and cap takes alot of pressure to open). And the throttle linkage isn't a fan of returning to the idle screw, it often sits above it. I also have no idea how to activate the high idle apart from at the carb itself.

I'll be honest, I didn't put a fuel regulator on it, it is just running from the mechanical. A guy at Redline said it should be fine, and that he actually did it with his own D50.

Can these issues really all be from wrong fuel pressure? It runs just fine apart from turning it off, slight idle variations/beat skipping, and sometimes false starting.

This is a brand new out the box Weber 32/36 from carburetion.com, I would really appriciate some help.

[SubGothius]

If it's not coming to rest on the idle screw, the choke fast-idle is still engaged somehow. I covered how to adjust the carb, choke and fast-idle in this thread:

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ith-weber-carb

Sounds like your fuel tank may be developing a vacuum, rather than pressure; this would suggest some blockage in your vapor-capture line(s) or maybe the fuel cap (I'm not sure which way the tank is meant to draw air in as fuel is depleted or the fuel contracts as it cools).

Excessive fuel pressure could push fuel past the needle valve in the carb when the float should be holding that closed, overfilling the fuel float bowl and forcing excess fuel into the intake ("flooding"). Most of us with a Weber swap run an electric fuel pump with 2.5-3.5 psi pressure, or some run the stock mech pump with a pressure regulator, tho' that can stress the pump and cause it to fail prematurely. May also be a good idea to check your float levels, which I covered here:

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...flooding-issue

[camoit]

Sounds like the tank is not venting properly. Get a vented cap. Or hook up the charcoal canister and just let it vent.
as far as engine run on. You should preform a lean idle set on the carb. Use the search bar at the top. I made a full write up on how to do it years ago.
if you don’t already have it. This might help. Weber manual
http://www.mightyram50.net/d-50/Fact...Trans_Only.pdf

[85Ram50]

Here is an info source for Weber https://www.carburetion.com/Weber/weber.htm